Final drive in Marrakech was very easy. That early (before 9am) there’s very little traffic. You do still need your wits though, especially on roundabouts. Moroccan roundabouts seem to confuse people but there are four very basic rules: 1 – give way to people on the roundabout, unless 2 – people entering the roundabout had […]

Got up this morning and immediately encountered the traditional Moroccan mix of horror and fascination when I didn’t want breakfast. It’s inconceivable that someone might start the day without food. I did get a large coffee though. With three sugar lumps on the saucer. Moroccan sugar lumps are just over twice the size of British […]

It’s been an eventful day today. Got fined 150 dhiram for speeding. That’s £12 for going 4mph over the limit. Damnit. Broke my phone. It’s usable, but the screen is damaged at the sides – fortunately not on the display part, the bezel instead. That was a rock in the Sahara. Got harassed by Berber […]

I’ve determined that there are four ages of woman in Morocco, defined by their behaviours. Young women will smile at you, but also avoid eye contact and look away. The smiles are often embarrassed that they did catch eye contact. Middle aged women will make eye contact, hold it, but never smile. They glare at […]

Finally found a Morocco that I don’t like. The constant demands for cash. Everybody wants paying for anything, they interfere with you – parking, walking through the medina, looking for a restaurant – then act as though they made a life changing contribution that must be rewarded. Also today, I upset a number of locals. […]

Today’s highlight was.. well, more than one. The waves crashing on the Atlantic coast. The impromptu game of beach football that got interrupted by horse riders. Getting stopped by the police – until I asked if they spoke English at which point they encouraged me to go away. But no, there’s an easy winner: I […]

In Casablanca today. I actually saw another white person earlier 🙂 Nothing touristy here whatsoever which is fine; the countryside on the drive here was mundane and rural but also just revealed a ton about Morocco and the people here. Casablanca is entirely at odds with it, far more western in feel. It’s a generic […]

32 hours without sleep at this point which may explain the stupid thing I just did. I fell in love. With a city. The first two hours were frustrating waiting for the hire car. Then 90 minutes of raw hilarity: the roads here are a joy and an experience. Then a 8-10km walk down a […]